Frederique Constant, and its sister brand Alpina currently combine using both in-house made mechanical movements as well as sourced movements from ETA/Sellita. Watches with "Manufacture" in the title tend to be those which have in-house made calibers. Inside the Classic Manufacture is the Frederique Constant caliber FC-710, and it has been a pretty good looking work horse. The movement is an automatic with about 42 hours of power reserve and includes the time with central seconds and a subdial for the date. Some prior models look very similar but do not have a seconds hand.
Every year at SIHH, Panerai releases a couple of limited edition watches and this year was no different. For 2014, Panerai introduced three new Radiomir chronograph watches using the 1940 Radiomir case. The highlight, however, is its retro-style dial and underneath it, the Panerai OP XXV caliber which is in fact based on Minerva 13-22 movement. I must admit that I was slightly taken aback when I first saw these watches, but I’m gradually warming up to them now.
Getting the best price is also a matter of research. Watch brands don't like it when we suggest non-official ways to buy watches, but it only takes a mere Google search to determine that many watches are available online at prices under their standard retail price. It is a good idea to also know how much discounting is going on. Steep discounting can mean that a watch isn't in demand, that it is no longer in production, or that there is a very high availability of inventory. That doesn't mean it is a bad watch, but it is good information to know. Buying from brand boutiques or authorized third-party retailers is probably the safest way to get a watch, but it certainly isn't the only way.
Listen to the HourTime Show was podcast episode 157 here.
For the Chapter One watch Holtzman called upon a duo of watchmakers. Those where Christophe Claret and Peter Speake-Marin. Whether Holtzman was influence by Max Busser's Opus watch concept that he created for Harry Winston, or came up with the idea alone doesn't really matter. It was an interesting take to have multiple watchmakers collaborate on a single design. Christophe Claret however had what is perhaps the most important role as he built (and still does) the movements for each Chapter One watch.
Coming in at a price of ,600 on the new bracelet (or ,900 for the rubber strap), this is another sharp entry to the lineup, expanding your options with the new bracelet. clercwatches.com
6. How The Most Popular Watches Can Be Recognized By Just Their Hands
Sometimes things need not be so complicated to be desirable and, for some, to be exceedingly valuable. Big watches are in nowadays, and that makes important watches of the past which were extraordinarily large for the time in high demand. In the special world of auctions, high demand equals no limit bidding. A stellar example is this monopusher chronograph from 1932: cased in an 18k gold case measuring 46 millimeters in diameter, not only was it considered to be an extremely large watch at the time, but it still remains uncharted territory as Patek Philippe generally makes much more conservatively sized pieces.
Whatever time you're looking for, you've also got the handy day-night split on the disc (6:30 am to 6:30 pm) that can both keep you straight as to the time of day, as well as if you're calling too late in the day to someone around the globe. All told, this gives you a much greater amount of flexibility than a simple GMT hand would offer, albeit at the cost of a slightly larger watch, to keep things legible (though the famous Patek Philippe World Timer is still a rather modestly-sized watch). That said, I can see the argument for both styles of timekeeping; it really depends what your use of the watch is.
Oh, and if just looking at the globe wasn't enough? Gruebel Forsey has included a window on the side of the case wherein you can see the southern hemisphere (the South Pole doesn't appear, as it's the anchor point for the globe). Frankly, this is just a fun take on a very serious aspect of timekeeping. I know if I got my hands on this watch, I would probably make it a quest to find a flashlight with a defined enough beam to play the role of the sun, and watch it illuminate the globe.
And the winner was…
Literally topping off the Pilot Type 20 Grand Feu is the enamel dial. What type of enamel? Grand Feu of course. The lovely dial is enamel painted and then baked. If my suspicions are true then this dial is going to look very lovely with high-contrast hour markers and crisp details. The blued hands are nice, though they are skeletonized versus lume filled which reduces some of the timepiece's utility. Then again, you didn't go ahead and get a 60mm wide watch in sapphire crystal and white gold to be practical and utilitarian did you?
The Shinola Black Blizzard watch is named for the rather terrible dust storms that hit places such as Oklahoma in the 1930s during the Dust Bowl. Shinola claims that the name is meant to allude to American perseverance, but it is a bit odd for the watch to be named after one of the really tough parts of that era for the people who mostly starved and moved West. Now it is time for us all go watch The Grapes of Wrath - or read it, if you have the time.
The Sky Moon Tourbillon is without a doubt one of the most widely recognized watches that Patek Philippe has ever made. Earlier last year, in 2013, the manufacture introduced its follow-up model, now referred to as 6002G. With its astonishingly intricate (and perhaps slightly excessive) engravings adorning its 18k white gold case, the 6002G managed to elevate the already striking appearance of its predecessor to another level. Beyond its stunning aesthetics, this reference hides the most complicated wrist watch movement that Patek makes. The front of the watch displays the time, perpetual calendar with retrograde date, and the phase of the moon, while the dial on the back is reserved to address more unearthly issues. It features a stellar illustration of the northern sky as well as indications for sidereal time on a 24-hour scale, time of meridian passage of Sirius and of the moon, along with the angular progression and the phase of the moon.
I really like the hands. Nice and wide, long enough to reach the inner portion of the minute markers, beveled and contrasty. I hate dive watches with hard-to-see hands. I also like the color-matched date wheels.