2. CHRONOGRAPH: Timekeeping and split time presented down to an accuracy of 1/10th second.
Unfortunately, multiple tourbillons come at a price. This is a limited run, and there will only be 28 of this Arnold & Son DTE Double Tourbillon Escapement Dual Time model available, each one with a price tag of 8,865. In my opinion, the Arnold & Son DTE Double Tourbillon Escapement Dual Time is a beautiful watch and one I would love to have on my wrist. It handles its size with grace, and that vertical symmetry is a treat! Alas, such class does not come cheap, but if you do have the money (or a very rich, generous friend) it's not a bad thing to spend it on. arnoldandson.com
The movement inside is a Soprod A10 modified by Sarpaneva, replacing the date display with his moon phase indication – it, of course, takes a different gearing, with 29.5 days of of the moon phases replacing the 31 positions of the date. The back has a full-sized rotor that has been skeletonized in a way that matches the dial and features added weight and another coin of the Sarpaneva "Moonface" on one half. The crown is at the 4 o'clock position of the case, making the 46-millimeter wide – and relatively thin – case wear considerably smaller (and more comfortably) than spec data would suggest.
Roger Dubuis doesn't always seem to know how to market their tourbillon watches in regard to the language they use to describe them. According to Roger Dubuis, 2015 is the year of the "Astral Tourbillon," even though they never really elaborate on what that is. I believe it refers to the five-pointed star that the bridge over the mainspring barrel forms. Roger Dubuis also added "Spider" the name of their watches because they feel that the design of their skeletonized movements looks sort of like a spider web... and a star. It's all just words which are used in an attempt to best explain what are, in my opinion, difficult to explain products.
Of course, maybe they ought to play it up little… after all, nothing beats the stamp of approval from a fighter pilot who has punched out at 400 miles per hour while wearing one!
"Bremont-gate" & The Future
Without having tested the Olio smartwatch operating system in much detail, it is difficult to sum it up or discuss what it is like to live with it. More on that in the future... What I can talk about is the bigger picture of what Olio is trying to do with how users conceptualize interacting with the watch and making the best use out of the notification system.
As we neared our dive site the waves grew larger and the current stronger. This was my second day of diving and the boat crew felt the conditions were too strong to moor on a wreck. Instead, we would be drift diving. The boat would attempt to hold a position up-current from a series of wrecks and, using the current for transport, we would try and visit as many sites possible before our air supplies forced our ascent.
The new movement boasts 14 patents, which, all together, account for the gains in precision, power reserve, shock resistance, and magnetism. It incorporates the new Chronergy escapement – patented, of course – with pallet fork and escape wheel made of anti-magnetic nickel-phosphorus. The oscillator has an optimized blue Parachrom hairspring – which, interestingly, is not Rolex's new Syloxi silicon hairspring that was debuted more quietly last year. Parachrom is made from an exclusive-to-Rolex para-magnetic alloy – with no further information being given on what that contains. The point is that it is said to be 10 times more precise and it certainly accounts for the highly enhanced and reliable accuracy of the new Rolex 3255 caliber. The movement, with bi-directional automatic winding, features an upped power reserve, reaching 70 hours now.
There are two downsides to the Oysterflex that some collectors might find. First is that the strap does not fit flush with the Yacht-master case. I agree that straps and bracelets look really nice when they fit flush with the watch case. I have no doubt there is a reason for how Rolex designed the end of the strap - there is pretty much a [good] reason for everything that Rolex does. My guess is that given the material of the strap, it simply would not look nice right up against the case as the strap moved around. The second issue is limited adjustability. The Oysterflex strap will come in six different sizes and you'll need to choose the right fit for you when you buy it. There is some micro-adjustability in the deployant clasp but you'll need to choose only one strap option. Even cutting the straps to size is not really and option because of the metal part in the strap. You'll get a nice clean look with this decisions, but you can't share watches with friends and if you ever do, you'll need to purchase another Oysterflex strap directly from Rolex.
Oster Jewelers: Since our opening in 2002, we have had a few mainstay brands including Audemars Piguet, Hublot, Ulysse Nardin, Parmigiani, and Bell & Ross. All of these brands have been extremely succesful for us and have a loyal following. Many of our clients enjoy multiple pieces, even though they may have started by choosing one brand. When you buy luxury, though, a strange thing happens... You enjoy it!!! And then NEED another. We offer a wonderful and diverse collection from a first automatic watch to a first Minute Repeater or Tourbillon. Our guiding principle is to offer the very best quality in every category. Our decisions are not guided by marketing budgets, they are guided by quality and service offered. We are pleased to have just added Nomos to our brand line-up which we are sure is going to be a massive success and may appeal to a whole new Denver demographic as well as our existing clientele. We attend Basel each year and stay up with all the news so that we are always ahead of the trends. Our customers appreciate our commitment to the industry and love our ability to unearth lesser known treasures before they become popular and known to all.
According to the company, the Girard-Perregaux Minute Repeater Tourbillon With Gold Bridges takes a master watchmaker 270 hours to construct. That's a lot of time for sure, but the price tag probably makes it worthwhile. The Girard-Perregaux Minute Repeater Tourbillon With Gold Bridges retails at a price of 5,000. There will only be ten pieces made in this limited run, so if you want one, you'd better strike while the iron is hot! girard-perregaux.com
It is also of note that the watches are all assembled in Detroit, by Ayoub himself. As I have seen in experience (and discussions with other brands), having the assembly in-house, as it were, really gives things an additional level of quality control that you sometimes do not get to see coming from the smaller brands, who may rely on all QC and assembly being done in an overseas factory, with the watches being shipped to the brand for sale. This is not to say that it is necessarily a bad thing, as brands should go with their strengths. In the case of Detroit Watch Company, however, I like this commitment, both to the watches being made in, as well as bringing industry back to Detroit.
In addition to the various flavors of sonneire (grand sonnerie and peitie sonnerie), the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime 5175 also has a neat alarm function which ends with strikes of the chimes. The other major series of complications revolves around the perpetual calendar functions. Patek Philippe designed the 5175 to have a complete calendar system with the day, date, month, leap year, moon phase, as well as the current year. While the back of the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime 5175, which displays most of the calendar data, isn't particularly exciting to look at, the information is beautifully clear and easy to read. It actually would have been nice to have a bit of decoration on this side though, as it feels incomplete or out of place when compared to the other side of the watch which is clearly more decorative.
The last major addition to the Rolex Datejust collection was the Rolex Datejust II which took the traditional 36mm wide size of the still available Datejust and increased it to 41mm wide for all Rolex Datejust II models (hands-on review here). This was seen as a way for Rolex to appeal to contemporary tastes for larger watches. In 2012, Rolex released an all steel version of the Datejust II with a rounded bezel, which previously had only 18k gold fluted bezels – even on those models with otherwise steel cases and bracelets. It is interesting to consider where Rolex might take the Datejust collection next.
In steel, the Arnold & Son Time Pyramid has very much the same personality as the gold model, but in a slightly more discreet yet equally visually fascinating manner. What will motivate many people about the watch is of course its more accessible price. I will never refer to a watch priced at over ,000 as being affordable. I prefer to take the lead of PR professionals in my industry and simply stick with "more accessible," and it does not conceal the fact we are still talking about luxury items.
With that said, I still look carefully at each new F.P. Journe watch I put on my wrist and continue to discover a variety of ways the brand can surprise me. Anyhow, that's really a larger discussion about a brand I am fond of, and I should get back to the timepiece at at hand, the F.P. Journe Chronometre Souverain.
Ultimately, that is what things come down to: how much do you like the thermometer being included? I think it is a neat trick built into a beautifully styled watch, but it is not a complication that is terribly useful to me in day to day situations. In these looks, one of the other models I mention above would probably be a better fit for me, personally. Then again, when a gorgeous watch like the Ball Trainmaster Kelvin offers something out of the ordinary, well, that may just be worth the price of admission. Price for the Ball Trainmaster Kelvin is ,499. ballwatch.com
The Da Luca Straps Yin paired quite well with my Michelsen Arctic Explorer (review here), and rather changed the looks up – as I expected it to do. While I would not call the Yin a dress strap by any means, it is a great every-day option, certainly appropriate for the office. The thinner leather was very soft on the wrist and pliable, making for a comfortable fit.
The UHF movements also offer sweeping seconds hands similar to those in mechanical watches and they have a battery life of about two years. All that is nice and good, but what I appreciate the most is that they offer all this for a reasonable price of no more than about 0 - 0 to start. Bulova Accutron II watches top out a few hundred dollars more depending on the model.
Keep up with our pre-, post-, and live Baselworld 2015 coverage here.
Good luck, and thanks to Zodiac Watches, the sponsor of the Zodiac Heritage Sea Wolf watch giveaway here at aBlogtoWatch!
I think Bremont is a very promising brand with some very interesting designs and collaborations. As a bit of a petrolhead myself, I especially like the watches that they did in collaboration with Jaguar. However, the brand got itself in a bit of a pickle last year with the release of the Bremont Wright Flyer when it got a little too over enthusiastic with some of the terms used in its press release. However, I don’t think its fair that that incident alone should paint your impression of Bremont considering what the brand has done and achieved in the short few years since its founding. If your opinion towards them is less than favorable, maybe this article can change your mind.
The Bremont Jaguar MKII sports a chronograph, courtesy of the BE-50AE movement, which is based on the ETA 7750. Unlike the three-hand version, the chronograph is COSC certified. Displaying the running seconds at 9, the 30-minute counter for the chronograph at 3, and the date at 6, the Bremont Jaguar MKII offers a very clean, legible and, dare I say, handsome dial. The dial has good contrast between the properly sized hands and the Jag-dashboard-inspired numerals printed between 8 and 4. What, from the images, appears to be a large cap securing the three central hands is an interesting design element and one that I look forward to seeing "in the metal."